Winter Amid the Medieval Towers of Mestia

6 AM: The road is thick, fresh snow; undefined – just part of an endless white sheet running the entire mountainside.

It falls in delicate waves as the mini-bus meanders.

Getting to Mestia in mid-winter is proving a mission. But the sight of stone towers elevates my early-morning haze to a high.

Video: Exploring Mestia in Winter

VIDEO INFO: Getting a mini-bus to the ancient stone towers of Mestia – lost amid mid-winter snow. Drinking with locals, wandering quiet streets, climbing medieval stone towers, surrounded by the high peaks of the Caucasus Mountains.

Mestia is in the north-west of Georgia in the Svaneti region

Snowy mountain valley view with towers in Mestia, Georgia. — Snowy mountain valley view with towers.

The surrounding Caucasus Mountains reach 3000 to 5000 meters, and it’s these parts which are among the highest-inhabited areas of Georgia.

View from a Svan stone tower in the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia.

Medieval stone towers rise amid the valley at Mestia

They built these defensive stone towers between 8 and 12 AD. Today, around 175 remain scattered across the valleys of Svaneti.

Room with a view at dusk, looking across the towers of Mestia in winter. — Room with a view, with wine, at dusk, looking from my – awesome family – home-stay.

Travel Advice for Mestia in Winter

NOTE: I traveled here in 2012, and I believe Mestia has really taken off as a tourist resort since (including as a ski resort). Before it was completely quiet in winter.

stone towers of mestia in winter in Georgia

GETTING THERE: Marshrutkas (vans) from Zugdidi leave early morning from outside the train station (good if you’re coming from Tibisi on the overnight train).

Traveling at the height of winter is possible, and they usually clear the road fast.

Local people of Mestia — Locals in Mestia.

(But getting to Ushguli in mid-winter is near impossible. If you find a willing taxi driver, it will be very expensive and potentially dangerous because of the snowed-in road).

Travel Gear: Sleeping bag (as home-stays can be freezing outside of the living room), wind-breaker / gore-tex jacket, good fleece jacket w/ thermal underclothes, gloves, hat. Boots and a double-layer of socks.

Interior of Medieval stone house – attached to tower at the Margearne residence.

Accommodation & Eating: Hotels are expensive, but family home-stays are good value. You get your own room with a shared bathroom and large delicious meals are included for $25-30 a day.

Small shops sell alcohol, snacks, etc.

However, Mestia eating-out options are limited in winter.

Wrecked Soviet truck in backstreets of Mestia in Winter. — Wrecked Soviet truck in backstreets during winter.

Sights: Aside from exploring Mestia and trekking to other villages – the museum was closed for renovation when I visited – there’s a couple of “family museums” that include climbing the towers and seeing original house interiors.