Ulisa Bay afternoon lakoma island lake malawi

Magical Ulisa Bay on Likoma Island – Lake Malawi

Lake Malawi was a good rest stop – 5 slothful days on Likoma Island, away from my long Cairo to Cape Town overland trip.

Ulisa Bay afternoon view on likoma island in lake malawi
Likoma island accommodation: Ulisa Bay Lodge dusk view from restaurant balcony.

Advice for Likoma Island

Ulisa Bay Lodge was a recent choice on the island and the only place in Ulisa Bay.

The other two luxury lodges on Likoma Island are out of range for backpackers.

 Looking to tiny Ulisa Bay on Likoma Island in Lake Malawi
Looking to tiny Ulisa Bay on Likoma Island in Lake Malawi.

Chris, a sincere, middle-aged Englishman who has integrated into the community, runs Ulisa Bay Lodge. He speaks the local language and has a Malawi wife and kid.

sunset at ulisa bay on likoma island malawi
Sunset and looking towards another island – that also belongs to Malawi and, like Likoma, it is actually within the territorial waters of Mozambique’s side of Lake Malawi.

Its a scenic and tranquil location.

Yet, nearby there’s chilled village action to watch, along with tasty food, great service, and simple amenities with thoughtful extras.

Accommodation at Ulisa Bay Lodge costed was $US 20 a room (in 2013; great value for couples).

Phone / email ahead to organize a pick-up, as the lodge is a meandering 2.5 km from the ferry point and probably an issue finding it at night.

*

GETTING to Likoma Island

The only transport is a twice-weekly ferry that arrives early evening. BUT check locally, as the schedules are prone to change.

boys play about in surf at ulisa bay lake malawi
Boys in the surf of Ulisa Bay, playing up for the camera.

Lake Malawi Star Gazing

And drinking nightly with the chilled, young South African couple.

He was a journalist breaking corruption and getting death threats. She was a fashion designer. Both from Jo’burg.

Kids dwarfed by ancient Baobab trees on Likoma Island; Red fishing nets - spread like a squid lake malawi
Ulisa Bay scenes: Kids dwarfed by ancient Baobab trees on Likoma Island; Red fishing nets – spread like a squid.

We enjoyed dusk-to-late night sessions of everything alcoholic.

birds ulisa bay likoma island lake malawi
LEFT: Woman carrying mud-bricks. RIGHT: Every morning birds on mass partying – wondrously noisy nests of a finch colony and occasional fishing eagles in trees next to my bungalow. But also Cormorants and Storks on the lake shore; and also a Hawk sparring mid-air in crazy dog-fights with a large Raven.
pictures of sunset at ulisa bay likoma island pictures lake malawi
Vodka sunsets … Mostly I drank the day away on my balcony or nearby, desaturating from the long overland journey and loving the environment.

One evening – elevated on San Pedro – drinking on the small sandy beach, waves lapping feet.

High and loving nature and the universe… 

Just look up!

Malawi is called “The Lake of Stars.”

Travels in Malawi – 2013

Join THE JOURNEY

Get my Crazy Travels book

and a few newsletters

No spam - No BS

Join THE JOURNEY

Get my Crazy Travels book

and a few newsletters

No spam - No BS

Michael Robert Powell

Michael Robert Powell

Global Nomad - Traveling for Fun, Knowledge & Freedom, since 1988

© THE CANDY TRAIL