Lake Malawi was a good rest stop – 5 slothful days on Likoma Island, away from my long Cairo to Cape Town overland trip.

Advice for Likoma Island
Ulisa Bay Lodge was a recent choice on the island and the only place in Ulisa Bay.
The other two luxury lodges on Likoma Island are out of range for backpackers.

Chris, a sincere, middle-aged Englishman who has integrated into the community, runs Ulisa Bay Lodge. He speaks the local language and has a Malawi wife and kid.

NOTE: This post is NOT sponsored or written for freebies. Simply, I met a South African couple on the ferry who said tag along with them, and so I did.
Its a scenic and tranquil location.
Yet, nearby there’s chilled village action to watch, along with tasty food, great service, and simple amenities with thoughtful extras.
Accommodation at Ulisa Bay Lodge costed was $US 20 a room (in 2013; great value for couples).
Phone / email ahead to organize a pick-up, as the lodge is a meandering 2.5 km from the ferry point and probably an issue finding it at night.
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GETTING to Likoma Island
The only transport is a twice-weekly ferry that arrives early evening. BUT check locally, as the schedules are prone to change.

Lake Malawi Star Gazing
And drinking nightly with the chilled, young South African couple.
He was a journalist breaking corruption and getting death threats. She was a fashion designer. Both from Jo’burg.

We enjoyed dusk-to-late night sessions of everything alcoholic.


One evening – elevated on San Pedro – drinking on the small sandy beach, waves lapping feet.
High and loving nature and the universe…
Just look up!
Malawi is called “The Lake of Stars.”
Travels in Malawi – 2013