day-of-dead-mexico

Hanal Pixan – Maya Day of the Dead

Merida - Mexico

Glowing psychedelic skulls grin at me.

The dead are alive.

Today is The Day of the Dead.


The Maya Hanal Pixan is ‘The Day of the Dead’

And Mexico’s Day of the Dead is like Halloween but …

maya-candle-night-event-hanal-pixan-mexico
Night of the Dead … Skull-painted Mayan women in ceremony on the streets of Merida

But instead of the American dark love of horror movies, sugar-crazed trick or treat kids and inanely grinning pumpkins, you find life – with costumed street parties, drinking, family picnics and cleaning graves to celebrate their deceased loved ones.

Either way, the origins of these festivals merge.


Global Cultures Celebrate the Dead

And it’s no secret that all cultures across the planet respect and remember their ancestors in a ritual (for example, in China, it’s known as Qing Ming: Tomb Sweeping Day).

skulls-window-display
Wanna buy a souvenir? No shortage of skull-themed goodies. (Reflections of a store window in Merida)

Origins of Halloween

However, the origins of Halloween go back over 2000 years to the Celts in Britain and Ireland.

They celebrated Samhain (pronounced Sow-in) at the end of Autumn, when winter brought more deaths.

This was a time to connect with their dead, with bonfires, food, and masks.

Later, with Christianity in Britain, they assimilated Samhain into the medieval holidays of All Hallows’ Eve, Hallowmas, and All Souls’ Day (October 31, November 1 and 2).

vendor-day-of-dead-mexico HANAL PIXAN
They set many stalls and displays in the town square as locals gathered to celebrate the Maya HANAL PIXAN festival in Merida.

Halloween Connection

How does Halloween relate to the Maya?

A world away from Europe?

Well, with Columbus there followed fortune-seekers, soldiers and missionaries flooding the Americas.

And these — often over-zealous — Christians were hell-bent on local conversions.

Like that earlier era in Europe, they incorporated local customs into conquering Christian beliefs to win over converts. So an ancient Mayan ritual of worshipping the Gods of Death (Ixtab & Ah Puch) became a day for dead relatives.

And in other parts of Mexico, Aztec customs also became part of this colonizing process. (Although the Spanish believed they were rescuing the natives from the grips of Satan. You know — human sacrifices and trophy skulls).

maya-mexicans-day-of-dead
Mexicans of Mayan descent in Merida for the Hanal Pixan festivities.

Hanal Pixán means ‘Food of the Souls’ and is celebrated on October 31st

maya food and drink offering on hanal pixan mexico
Food and drink offerings on Hanal Pixan in Merida, Mexico.

Naturally, like at any celebration, piles of food decorate tables.

For Hanal Pixan, Maya decorate tables with flowers, traditional candies made of pumpkin, yuca, sweet potato, and also with tortillas, bread, maize.

And with fruit like mandarins and grapefruit, alongside cigarettes and strong liquor.

There’s a skull grinning at me.

I gulp my beer.

He looks menacing – glad he’s dead.

Maya in shamanistic traditional attire for Hanal Pixan
Maya in shamanistic traditional attire for Hanal Pixan.

Travels in Mexico – 2009

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Michael Robert Powell

Michael Robert Powell

MRP is a global nomad from Aotearoa / New Zealand, meandering without a plan for nearly-4 decades. He loves all corners of the planet and excels in long overland trips with a decent slice of hedonism.