The mind-blowing temples of Angkor are wondrous, yet nearby is another amazing site that’s mostly ignored.
Koh Ker is amazing – TOTALLY worth visiting, especially for the step pyramid of Prasat Thom, and a cluster of tree-strangled temples.
And, the site lacks crowds.
CONTENTS
A Pyramid in Cambodia
Prasat Thom pyramid is the most significant temple at Koh Ker.
Get there early and clamber up the steps, rising seven‑tiers and 36-meters high. It was probably the state temple of King Jayavarman IV.
The temple pyramid of Prasat Thom. The view on top is of the surrounding jungle and a small village amid the trees. There are lots of weird insects buzzing about in the morning.
Koh Ker – Brief History
History recalled Jayavarman IV as the city’s most ambitious ruler. That he constructed an enormous water-tank and about 40 temples.
And during his reign, at least 10,000 inhabitants lived in the capital.
At this stage in Khmer history, the state religion was Hinduism, not Buddhism.
Back in the day, Koh Ker was called Lingapura because the temples housed stone lingas; phallic symbols associated with the Hindu god – Shiva.
Lingapura was the capital of the vast Khmer empire before Angkor superseded it.
Getting to Koh Ker Temples
GETTING THERE: I hired a taxi motor-bike from Phear Vihear city (also called Tbeng Meanchey) on a paved road all the way.
I paid $20-25 return
This included a distance of 140 km, waiting and driving around the site, as the temples are too far spread to walk.
AND – and it’s hot. (Baking if you time it in Summer).
The other alternative, which most people do, is to take a group tour or hire a taxi from Siem Reap (located 130 km south-west) since there’s no public transport to Koh Ker or around the site.
My moto driver at his house, with wife and kid. He took me to Koh Ker but spoke virtually no English, yet via charades, we managed fine. He told me his wife washed clothes for a living.
Travel Tips
- Koh Ker entrance is $10 (2014).
- TIPS for visiting Koh Ker: Few tourists yet; take your time and explore!
- Go in the early morning to avoid the heat.
- Take water, sunscreen, and hat.
- There’s very little infrastructure, but you can stay in a local house nearby.
- Drinks and simple meals – noodles or rice with meat + veg – are available at the “Temple Pyramid” entrance, only.
DANGER – Mines! Stay on established tracks.
Travels in Cambodia – 2014
