The Sufi whirling devishes at the Hamid El-Nil Mosque in Omdurman are sensational. Friendly. Funky. Fun. Uplifting. Pious. Pure ... I wish more westerners could witness these positive aspects of Islam.
It was one of those epic meet-ups with a friend. But in Africa. Something we thought possible but when confronted by so many of the uncertainties of the road, it seemed very touch and go. Until it actually happened.
If you're looking for a quiet, ragged, end-of-the-earth place - then I highly recommend Berbera. Guaranteed no backpacker hostels or cafes. And probably zero foreigners. Bliss for some travelers; hell for others.