Visiting the massive penguin colony at Brown Bluff on the Antarctic Peninsula was … well, amazing. Across a foggy morning we piled into zodiacs and speed across the frigid bay, amid massive icebergs, to reach the stony shore of this busy penguin city.

There I sat on a stone, watching citizens going about their business –  nonchalant to human presence. Them picking up small stones on the ground, attending their chicks – awaiting the return of partners on a food-finding mission, others bickering with neighbors over territory. Quite a wonderful noise across this black & white metropolis.