An overland journey – mostly by boats – crossing massive coastal lagoons, staying in Garifuna fishing villages; canoes up rivers, thru jungle, staying in Peche tribal villages; perched on cargo on pick-ups across very rough roads; across river borders – lacking immigration posts …

Boy being washed - Belem, Mosquito Coast, Honduras

THE ROUTE:

• HONDURAS:
• Trijillo - Batalla
• Rias Ta / Belem
• ( Las Marias  and the Rio Platano Biosphere Reserve – return to Rais Ta )
• Brus Laguna – Ahuas
• Puerto Lempira
• Leimus
• NICARAGUA : Waspam – Puerto Cabeza

>>> More  soon …

Dusk ocean view from Isla Meanguera in the Gulf of Fonseca, El Salvador

The lush, mountainous, tobacco-growing area of Vinales

It started to rain, so I sought shelter for me and my mountain bike under a veranda with this boy, and then the family emerged. The woman grabbed some tabacco leaves and rolled me a cigar then and there. I smoked about a third as I played catch (with the boy’s tennis ball) as it rained … then I rode on to the massive mural within the mountains (… see slideshow).

Volcanic crater lake of Chicabal - sacred to the Mam Maya

The lake is 575 meters wide and 331 deep.

It takes 2 hours from the nearest village to hike there, surrounded by dense cloud-forest, mists usually blanketing the entire lake and volcano by mid-morning.

Morning vista of volcanoes from Volcano Chicabal's peak

A lucky clear morning view reveals three nearby volcanoes … including Santa Maria & the small, but active and regularly erupting Santiaguito Volcano.

Young Maya girl on the sacred shores of Lake Chicabal

The lake is so sacred that it is forbidden to wash, swim, or fish in its waters. Legend has it that once some men fished there and were sucked under the waters to disappear forever …

Maya shrine at sacred Lake Chicabal

This altar is a gateway to the underworld – a place of spirits beneath the volcanic crater waters. When Maya go into the water to make such shrines that go only when tied / roped to someone else on the lakeshore … for safety.

maya altar at lake chicabal

Numerous altar areas – different places for blessings like better health, fertility or to forgive sins – circle the lake where Maya light fires and copal – pine gum incense, offer alcohol, candies and cookies to the spirits.

Wander an active volcano to view stunning volcanic scenery, watch cones smoke and lava flow …