Waiting for water to boil – Gwangyang, Korea
10 Oct
Sung-ho apartments, Gwangyang - typical Korean urban living
I went to bed early cos there was nothing to do – nothing on TV and the internet was mysteriously down and I have no friends here – but I’ve woken at 11:23 pm from a dull dream that inspired nothing but boredom and the desire to, wake.
So I turn to writing … but about what: my recent life has become the most boring existence on the planet. I – the extreme global nomad – have become a universal banality where boiling water and awaiting a coffee hit is the best, I can get.
And while I can admit to never really having had many great dreams in my entire fuckin’ live, and only ever remembering the ones that were stupid, dull, scary, or fearful … here the last few weeks the dreams have been really f**** dull – like teaching kids English – class by class - minute by minute, or photocopying – page-by-page - and fuckin’ hell, they last forever maybe double-slow real time, forcing me awake in the middle of the night; grumpy – cos they are so fuckin’ damned dull that my sleeping system simply shuts down and snaps me sharp, awake, for hours … So here I am: Bored by my dreams; dulled by my existence.
I’ve been living here 4 months now, and I wonder if – not, when – the excitement will brew or if in fact the water may never boil and that I’m facing a life of complete social emptiness living here in Gwangyang, South Korea.
My Philippines break has become a distant memory, which my credit card has only just recovered and which my crotch, now arches, for such a crazy release. No sex, for me here – in fact, no friends and absolutely no conversation – beyond a few lines with the few Korean, basic-English-speaking teachers, all married with kids, that’s the end; I am alone.
Not that’s it’s the first time so alone or that I can’t deal with such an environment. Easy. Except for the fact that I’ve got 8 more months of complete solitude, til I can hit the road again, cashed up, and free. But meantime: I wait for that water to boil; that encounter to happen, an interest to ferment.
Gwangyang – meaning: sunshine – is a hilly, coastal, port city of around 140,000 and has good infrastructure – big, wide roads and new high-rise buildings but is really a quiet town awaiting a population boom. It’s claim to frame is Posco – the world’s biggest, high-tech steel production industry on a nearby island, but how eco-friendly it is I wouldn’t know – are those giant plumes steam or smoke? (Sometimes the air here can be shitty – but whether her it’s industrial-stink or more often the neighbors cooking fish – I rush to close the window, before I gag.)
My life here revolves around teaching at two public elementary schools. Both, okay.
But this work, like this life, is getting routine … I teach grades 3, 4, 5, 6, from ages 10 – 13. The English program is via a government text book with CD animation story played on giant TVs, with listening, repeating, singing, but unfortunately it’s all too easy as city-Korean kids go to private academies outside of the public system, so 90% of the class has already learned what I teach which means I need to add something new to the lesson to make it fun, worthwhile. Mostly high energy games and activities. Within a teaching week of 22 different classes (at 40 minutes each) and each with 30 different students, after the mad-energy of kids (most hyper; crazy) I chill during my short breaks, and await the water to boil … the kids are fun, but coffee is my friend.
This empty lifestyle aside, there’s no reason for me to complain. The salary for the work is quite okay, the free furnished apartment, the free return flights, the contract completion bonus, the masses of holidays and school vacations, the tasty-Korean-school lunches, the super-internet speed, and all the out-of-class down-time means I slowly can get my travel / art projects, done; so, hey, it could be much worst.
So while I write this to escape yet another damned dull dream – it’s also for those who can’t find anything on Google about life or teaching in Gwangyang; now, you know what to expect. Bring your books, your hobbies, your strait-jacket, or maybe you will click with the very few foreigners here (that I never encounter but there are some) and know that Korea is nice, gentle, scenic, and easy to travel for those weekend getaways. And that Busan, big city shopping or partying, is only 2 hours away.
Tomorrow, I will venture out – maybe to the supermarket or maybe to the bus station for a trip to Yeosu – but where-ever I am, guaranteed to be greeted by the hearty, happy shouts of my students in the mellow streets of Gwangyang.
EXPLORE
Related comments and info from my Seoul – SEV post:
Patricia 09.07.08 at 5:29 am
I am looking at applying to Public School programs in Korea to teach – why does Gwangyang Province offer so much more paid vacation time than other provinces? Is it because it is rural? or harsh winter weather? or is there a catch? (like you have to do winter and summer camps or intensives which isn’t really a vacation at all?) Look forward to a response – Thanks.
thecandytrail 09.07.08 at 10:27 am
Hi Patricia. Public schools offer very good contracts: schools are actually closed about 3 months of the year, of which you are guaranteed your contract holidays – 34 in my case – plus all national holidays outside of these days; split between the summer (August) and winter (Dec-Jan) breaks, which are 5 – 6 weeks each … And during this time you take your paid holidays, and maybe work a camp or two – some contracts state this and in my case it’s always for extra pay, and all the other extra days of break when the school is closed you are also free from school to do what you want (except travel abroad as that’s only meant to be during you contract vacation days). So you get paid for all days the school is closed (even beyond your actual allocated leave); although I suppose some schools could insist that you come in – but to do what I don’t know?
Gwangyang – like some other provinces – fails to attract enough teachers cos of the shortage in required teachers across Korea, most foreigners prefer the big cities, especially Seoul & Busan; so to stay competitive they other more vacation leave.
Gwangyang means Sunshine; mild winters here. The city is small-ish, spread in pockets between mountains, and some coast, but is modern and has all amenities and is very pleasant (but quiet), and only 2 hours from Busan. Regards – MRP
Mitch 10.12.08 at 7:32 pm
Gwangyang is pumping 24/7 like no place on Earth!
thecandytrail 10.16.08 at 10:20 pm
For those wondering what-the-fuck Mitch is on about: he is a friend from my days in SEV, and hell we had some wild sessions on snowy, winter, Saturday nights in Itaewon – and last weekend he came down from his current job in Seoul to visit me – cool bro; great to catch up – and we drunk at my apartment and then went on the town to the supposed-foreigner-meeting bar called Gold Finger – empty; and then onto the local red-light area – sad; our night was – nothing; nothing going on besides the friendly, by-passers as we drank late-night bottles at the tables outside a corner 24/7 store. You are warned.
Hey Michael, if you want to meet some cool foreigners, come to String bar on Saturday night for a Halloween party, costume is optional, but more fun. There are actually quite a few of us in Gwangyang, some people going out more than others. Not everybody is married with kids, there’s quite a varied crew here. If you don’t know where String is, let me know and I’ll give you directions, or me and my husband can meet you somewhere. Yes, I am married, but we don’t have kids and we like to do stuff and we have friends that aren’t part of a couple.
Hi Nicole. Thanks for the info / lifeline. I have no idea where the String Bar is but I will PM you. I probably won’t have a costume .. but after a few drinks I’ll be able to pull a few Halloween faces … Regards – MRP
PS: the married teachers with kids, refers to the Korean teachers (at my schools).
Hi everyone,
It’s very interesting to read your thoughts about Gwangyang. I may be working out there next March. It’s a bit disappointing to hear there’s not much going on and so few foreigners. But quiet isn’t too bad as long as there’s one or two good bars and some decent cafes.
Are there any galleries or museums that are worth visiting? I read something about a festival of culture on Wiki. Anyone heard of it?
Where are you guys from? I’m from the UK. I’m learning a bit of Korean at the moment. Slow progress!
Hi, here’s a few links that may enlighten …
This guy blogs alot about “our” province and Korea
Official Gwangyang Tourism website – in English
Gwangyang Jang-Do Museum
As for me: I’m from New Zealand and find this place pleasant but NOT EXCITING but then again I have had a very intense life. And if it’s your first time to Korea – then there’s heaps around the country to explore and excite.
There are cafes and bars, shops and decent supermarkets but the city is smallish, quiet, and excitement is rare; BUT nearby big cities, like Gwangju and Busan, provide such things …
Regards – MRP
H i ~~~
Can you guess who am I ?
I’m a pharmacist in gwangyang .
Do you remermber me? hahahahahaha ^^
you’r blog is so wonderful.
I envy you and you’r freedom.
I hope meet again you . and anywhere you get good health ..happy time..
(my english is not good ;;;;; sorry)
Hi,
I’m a steel industry engineer in the UK. Myself and 2 colleagues are coming to visit Posco on Tues 25 Nov. Due to flight timings etc we’ll arrive at Yeosu early evening Sunday 23rd, and have a free day in Gwangyang on Monday. The weather forecast is heavy rain, so what will there be to do all day?
All suggestions, offers of a meet-up etc. greatly appreciated!
Richard.
Hi Richard – [ Also PM-ed you: ] Wish I could offer a million great suggestions but the fact is – I can’t. There’s a few hill-top vistas of bays, mountains and ocean but Posco is “the attraction” here. The foreigners – English teachers – that I’ve recently met here go to “String Bar” but probably only on Friday and Saturday; this town is very quiet. Sorry, I’m working on Monday – but maybe the resident-foreign engineers here can recommend something more than drinking beer and soju … Maybe consider going to Busan for the day (2 hours away by bus).
Regards – MRP
Hi! This is my first time reading your blog and i must say omigod! You must be there alone, and i’ll probably be in the same situation soon… I still not arrive into Gwangyang but i felt so identified with what you wrote…
I’ll be there in about a week accompanying my boyfriend for about a month (he is working at POSCO these days, aaaall day long…) and I was looking for some places to go when I’m there, but anywhere I look on the web says the same… even my boyfriend :s so wish me some luck. Maybe Suncheon has some more places like museums or pubs?
…Well I just wanted to share this with you and thank you for sharing your experiences around the world, with the world. Best wishes and regards from Mexico.
Brenda.
Hola Brenda
[ PM, also ] Thanks for comments. It is very quiet here, for sure. Some fantastic views, when hiking – on a good day. Bring warm clothes; winter. If it’s your first time in Korea, temples, and “other city” visits will prove interesting … I am on school-break vacation for some weeks now – sitting around here, getting more travel archives edited and loaded onto this site, so if you want to meet up, contact me.
Regards – MRP
Hi Michael
Hope this email finds you well.
Came across your site whilst trawling through the net to gather some information on Gwangyang, that bustling metropolis. And after reading your entry on the city, I must say I am quietly (no pun intended) apprehensive about the place. Long story short, a précis even: Me, been based in Sabah for the past three years. Company offering a scholarship in master of shipping and Transport at the STC-NMU in Gwangyang. Considering applying for it. 12 months in sunny Gwangyang if successful.
Now wondering if staying in a calmer version of Snoozetown will be good for the soul (or in my case, liver) or make me the headline news a few months later as the out-of-control-foreigner-running-amok guy. Anyhoo, would be glad to make your acquaintance if application is successful. I will come bearing gifts. In bottles.
Thanks for reading this.
Good luck with the water-boiling but you know what they say, a watched kettle never boils.
With the warmest greetings
Daniel OH
Hi Daniel
[ PM also ] This post was written some months ago when I was in an apartment within an imposing concrete canyon view; imprisoning, and the neighbors – insane, tortured sounds, at all hours the woman losing it; loud. Weird … like death, not sex. Anyway, I now have another apartment with city view and tranquility; bliss.
A few hours ago I met Brenda – a well-cool woman; met via this blog – for some beers – and guess what? We had the whole bar to ourselves!
I would welcome a meet up (am here til mid-June) and Tequila really works for me! Don’t be discouraged: Gwangyang is scenic and pleasant – but hey, yeah, this town is quiet – but big city madness isn’t too far away in Busan and Gwangju.
Maybe see you here …
Regards – MRP
PS: If you haven’t been to Korea before then staying in Gwangyang (or elsewhere) is a great chance to explore / travel Korea; many cool things to see and do, especially the Buddhist temples, old fortresses, masses of mountain hikes and the amazing southern coast islands.
Hello~
I’m an American who recently arrived in Gwangyang. I’ve been here for around 2 weeks now and finding it terribly isolating. I’ve been trying to make plans on the weekends to meet with friends who were placed in nearby towns/provinces but do to scheduling conflicts these all seem to fall through.
Well, I’ve got 4 and a half months on my contract, and possibly 6 months more if I choose to extend (which I would really like to), but I would also like to not go completely crazy.
I speak no Korean yet (I’m supposed to be studying it, but it hasn’t happened yet), but I go out every day and walk around some busy streets nearby, I guess just hoping for some kind of chance encounter with someone who speaks a little English. So far I’ve had little results other than some girls laughing and shouting “handsome guy!” or the whisperings of “migook” as I pass by.
I’ve done a bit of hiking and wandering about exploring the town, and of course runs to Suncheon whenever I can, but even so I’m left with a lot of free time. I love the kids at the school and the teachers are really great, but I would like some kind of life outside of work.
However, I’d prefer not to get too involved in an expat kind of group. Part of my job here is to study Korean life and culture, so an important part of that is fostering friendships with native Koreans (Which I suppose will become easier as I begin studying the language further).
A few Korean friends from Seoul suggested to me that Korean people are quite shy around foreigners, but still curious. However, I’m not exactly the bothersome of people, so I try not to pester random people by speaking an unfamiliar language to them. Maybe that’s my problem though?
Any thoughts?
Hi Mytch
[PM-ed also] … Welcome to Gwangyang ! I know exactly what you say.
The Korean teachers at my schools are also great – and I’ve had a few picnic / Soju sessions on school outings but otherwise nothing else; Gwangyang is mainly populated by Posco workers with their young families; it ain’t no swinging, party town.
Yeah, many Koreans are quite shy – not the kids ! – towards foreigners and I’ve mostly met adults while they / we’ve been drinking whether that be out hiking or a night on the town.
There are some foreigners that you may encounter at HomePlus mall – visiting sailors from the container port or Posco engineers & some English teachers – this latter group, gather on a Friday evening at String Bar and is typically ex-pat and youthful … But it’s still a quiet time. Wandering the streets you are unlikely to encounter anyone.
I suggest to meet adult Koreans – on a deep level – you need the language, yes; some speak English – and a tight connection like Soju, or a common interest in say Buddhism – temple stays, playing soccer – sports, or any hobby or activity and join a club, to get really involved with the locals.
For my part I don’t socialize with anyone regularly … But I always meet strangers when I go out – like at the Maehwa Festival yesterday, 20 km into the countryside where I met two Buddhist nuns amid the hills of white, plum tree blossoms. Anyway, I have been extremely reclusive here (purposely, trying to get this website developed before I get back on the road – proper – across Central America and beyond, starting mid-June …). IF you want to meet for a drink – Soju, beer, wine … let me know.
Meantime: stay happy / amused / sane (Yeah I know, not always easy, here)
Regards – MRP AKA thecandytrail
Well, one of my unfortunate vices (especially in Korea) is that I don’t drink. Or more to the point, I can’t (It’s beyond a personal choice, but to cut a long story short, I can’t). I’ve managed to explain that to my colleagues but it doesn’t do me much good socializing outside of the work environment.
Otherwise, I’ve only managed to speak with an older woman who works in a grocery I visit regularly who spoke enough English to ask me where I was from and if I was an English teacher. Also with a small group of Koreans who spoke surprisingly good English but were only interested in getting me to join their somewhat strange sounding religion, so I’m afraid that is a dead end.
Oh well, if there’s one thing I have plenty of, it’s time. Perhaps getting a Korean tutor would be a good foot in the door to a Korean social life.